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HOW
TO MAKE YOUR OWN
LARGE
& INEXPENSIVE
BUNNY
PEN:
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Important Note of Caution:
Being outside can expose rabbits to harmful threats such as
predators (dogs, cats, raccoons, coyote, bobcat, mountain lion, and
etc.). We increasingly feel that mosquitoes may pose a serious
threat to rabbits -- potentially carrying infectious disease.
The feces of raccoons and opossums often carry a virus that causes
disease in rabbits. Please exercise extreme caution if you
plan to keep your rabbit outside, even if only for short periods. |
Just about anyone can
build their own outdoor bunny pen cheaply!
You will need:
MATERIALS:
-
A length of
Chicken Wire fencing -- 3' or 4' widths
-
A pair of
wire cutters
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A heavy
hammer, or light sledge hammer
-
A clamping
tool (see below)
-
Hav-a-Hart clamps
-
Metal or
wooden fencing stakes/posts
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Large
"zip ties"
SELECTING
A LOCATION:
It is vitally
important that you select a location where your bunnies will always
have access to some shade. Ideally, your pen will get some sunlight
as well -- especially during the winter months when deep shade will
be very chilly.
Once again,
be absolutely sure that your location does not completely lose shade
at any time during the day. A bunny will die quickly if
trapped in full sun on a hot day.
It is best to
have some kind of shelter available to your bunny as well -- a
"barn" of some kind, a hutch, or even a small dog house (no
fleas please!) could be adapted to give the bunny shelter and a
feeling of security. The shelter should be something that will keep
your bunny nice and dry if it should start to rain! A wet bunny is a
cold and miserable bunny.
Be sure to
include a "nest box" filled with straw or pine shavings
inside the shelter, for your bunny to snuggle up in and get warm.
HOW
MUCH CHICKEN WIRE DO I NEED?
To begin,
figure out where you want your bunny pen to be and what shape and size it
should have. Then measure out the four sides, and add up their length.
Then, measure the length and width of the pen's floor. When you calculate
the floor, keep in mind whether you plan to use fencing material that is
3' wide, or 4' wide.
Example:
If you want
to make a nice 4' by 6' pen for your bunnies, you would add it up as
follows:
-
2, 4' sides
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2, 6' sides
-
1, 6'
long strip for the floor (if using 4' wide fencing)
OR... 2, 4'
long floor pieces (from 3' wide fencing), to be joined together
lengthwise (one 4' side to the other 4' side) to create a piece 4'
wide by 6' long.
Then, adding
this up you would need a piece of Chicken Wire fencing 26 feet long
-- for the taller, 4' width of fencing. Or, 28 feet of fencing if you
are using the shorter, 3' width of Chicken Wire fencing. Got it? If not...

WHAT
ABOUT A GATE?
One easy
solution to the gate issue is build your pen so that, on one of the short
sides, you simply snip the Chicken Wire, from top to middle, in two
places. You don't need to make a third cut (from snipped side to snipped
side) and remove the piece entirely because you're going to just fold it
down, or fold it over.
Because you
don't cut the piece of fencing completely off, you will be able to make
adjustments as needed.
For
example, if one of your rabbits becomes an exceptionally good jumper, you
can simply refold the fencing so that your is a little taller! You can
even use the large zip ties to reattach part of the snipped area to the
rest of the fencing. (Zip ties, available at the hardware store, are
easier to work with than wire, and will not scratch children or bunnies.)
You can
also use a zip tie or two to hold the folded fencing down, so it doesn't
flap up and scratch or trip someone.
BUYING THE SUPPLIES:
Okay, now
that you know how much fencing you will need, make a trip to Orchard
Supply Hardware or a similar store. Ask them to cut you the fencing you
need. Make sure to buy the sturdy 1" Chicken Wire -- anything more flimsy
just won't last, and anything firmer will be too hard to work with.
"Aviary Wire" is really much nicer to use, but it will cost you a bit
more.
Don't forget
to buy the other items while you're there! (If you are like me, you
should take a list!)
If you are
building the 4'x6' pen, or you will need at least 4 good sturdy metal
fencing stakes. If you're pen is larger, you will obviously need more.
If, at some
later point, you find your pen's fencing is bowing or bending a bit,
you can purchase some of those green, bamboo garden stakes to insert (vertically)
in the fencing to stiffen it up.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER:
-
The first
step is to place the metal fencing stakes where you want them to go
and to pound them into the ground securely.
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Next attach
the end of the Chicken Wire fencing to one pole with the large zip ties.
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Begin
unrolling the fencing and wrap it around the backside of the next
pole. Continue on to the other poles.
-
Take a break
here and go back to pole #2. Stretch the fencing good and taut, and
zip tie it onto the pole. Repeat the process with the other two poles.
-
Now bring the
fencing around the rest of the way, to the pole you began with. Zip
tie it onto the pole. Trim off the excess fencing (which you will be
using for the floor of the pen), and lay it aside.
-
Go ahead and
create your "gate" now, as described above. (You will need
to get inside the pen to lay out the flooring.)
-
After you're
gate is complete, lay the flooring piece inside the pen, and get out
your Hav-A-Hart clamps and clamping tool. Make sure the flooring is
aligned properly, then begin attaching it to the sides of the pen,
using the tool according to the directions on the package.
-
You may want
to just tack the fencing in place to begin with, spacing the clamps
widely at first. However, it is very important to go back over the
fencing and be sure that there are no gaps that a rabbit could
slip through!
-
Be sure to
also use the clamps to completely secure the seam at pole #1, where
the beginning and end of the fencing meet.
-
If you have
used two pieces of fencing for your flooring, you can use the clamps
to securely join the seam.
You're All Finished!
SOME ADDITIONAL
CONSIDERATIONS
There are a few additional issues that you
should keep in mind when creating your outdoor bunny pen:
One of these is that
chicken wire can rust
out and become prone to breakage. The more moisture the wire is
subjected to (for example if the pen borders on a frequently watered
garden), the faster it will rust. There are specially coated
varieties of chicken wire and etc that resist rusting. (They have a
green plastic-like coating.) But some rabbits may find this
irresistible for chewing. Be sure to examine your pen from time to time
to make sure there is no breakage (from rust or anything else) that would
allow your rabbits to escape.
Before you build your pen, you should
evaluate the creatures that may be visiting your yard. Raccoons,
although often content to snoop through your garbage, will sometimes kill
and eat small bunnies when driven to it by hunger. Once a taste has
been developed, even full sized rabbits may be attacked and killed. Other creatures
such as coyote, bobcat, mountain lion, large hawks or eagles can also be
a threat as can more domestic hunters such as dogs and cat (there are
those few cats out there that will take down a full size rabbit, though
most cats seem to largely be a danger to young rabbits).
And don't forget, no matter whether your
rabbits are in a hutch or in a pen they will leave
droppings (poop) which
will need to be cleaned up.
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Need a pen that's portable and capable of being stored when
not in use? We
highly recommend the
Pet
Yard Containment Pen
6 Panel System (18.5 sq ft
enclosure) available from Amazon.com
click for more info
This great little pet yard
folds up for storage and is big enough for a child or adult
to sit in with their bunny for cuddling and grooming.
Better still, you can snap it together with the extension
kit and have an even bigger play area!
Can be used indoors or
outdoors! Just remember that when outdoors on
grass or soft ground, rabbits like to dig. So don't
leave your pet unsupervised for long periods. (We also
recommend getting a package of
landscaping "staples" to secure the bottom of the pen to
the ground -- just in case.)
We love that we can move
the pen to different areas of the yard to take advantage of
shade or sun and tasty grasses (remember not to let your
rabbit eat chemically treated grass or foliage!). And
we especially like that the pen can be put away when we need
more space in the yard.
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